At the age of seven I was clearly converted in a meeting held for children in an old Quaker meeting house, and a few days after I was called to preach, and began to tell it as best I could. No one believed it, and would often tell me so, which would always make my little heart heavy, but with it all, I still felt when I grew up I would preach. My dear mother believed it, and would often lay her hand on my head at night and pray that His thought for my life would be carried out, and He would enable me to preach the whole Gospel without a shrink or compromise.
Several years afterwards the Holy Ghost came into my heart to abide, and even before that I had a desire to visit Palestine, and when He came the desire increased. I felt that such a trip would not only be an education and inspiration, but a revelation of Divine truths, and I would be better prepared for a more efficient and effective service for my Lord and Master, under the direction of the Holy Ghost. The hours of meditation and prayer would more clearly reveal the sufferings of my Lord, and what my salvation cost. The impressions made by the Holy Ghost would be beyond expression or description, as much of my time was spent alone with my Bible in prayer. The very thought of being in the land where Jesus walked and talked, lived and died, was a great blessing to me, and I knew such a privilege could only be granted by the Divine Hand. I felt it would bring a greater responsibility, as it would not only be for myself, but for others, and some day I would go, if I would be obedient to Him.
The next week after the Holy Ghost came, I started out in the work, and have been giving forth the message as best I could ever since, as He gives it to me.
After being in evangelistic work several years preaching the Gospel, the Lord laid it on the hearts of some of His saints to pay my expenses to the Holy land, and I should remain as long as I desired. The Lord spoke to them about it before I mentioned it, or their having any knowledge of the great desire which lay hid in my heart. After a line of special providences, I sailed from New York, and committed myself to the sea, leaving home, friends and all so dear, for a tour to and through the Holy Land. So if we expect to see Jerusalem, the Holy City, we must leave friends and loved ones and walk with God. Or if we expect to be a greater blessing and sink into the deep things of God, we must leave the blessings of the present and, "Press forward toward the mark for the prize of the high calling of God in Christ Jesus." New York was soon out of our sight, and we were plowing the waves of the trackless ocean, which was a new life to me. I had never known what it was to be ill, but I spent most of the first week in the cabin on my bunk, as we were several days in a hard storm, and I was content to remain there. The table had no charms for me. After tossing on the sea for two weeks, we landed in Naples, Italy. We had left the cold climate with her piercing winds and heavy storms, and found ourselves in a warm country. We were met by some musicians in a boat, and little children selling flowers. This was my first time to land in a foreign land, and to walk on foreign soil; every thing was strange. It did not seem like home. I went to a hotel and remained two days, waiting for an Italian steamer to take us to Alexandria, Egypt.
At the time appointed, we went aboard and were soon on our way, tossing on a troubled sea, but the voyage was soon over, and the next morning after we met for worship, we arrived in Alexandria, and were driven to the station through very narrow streets, with native scenes all about us. Upon arriving we found our train would not leave for some time, so about 4 o'clock in the afternoon, we left for Cairo, Egypt, passing through a land dotted with streams of water, green grass and other verdure. The natives were in the fields working, and had such queer looking plows.
This is the land where God so wonderfully displayed His power, sending the ten plagues, the last of which destroyed the first born of Pharaoh himself. Ingersoll spoke "On the Mistakes of Moses," but Pharaoh never chose that subject when he made an oration. How many things come to the mind when we think of Egypt and the people! Much has been effaced, but the Pyramids stand as a monument of Egyptian servitude. The people were compelled to make brick without straw, but did not get deliverance without God. I could almost see the hungry multitudes, the hard pressed thousands, the sorrow and suffering of Egyptian bondage, then the great deliverance by God himself -- the dividing of the Red Sea -- when with one stroke of the Divine Hand, the people received such an emancipation proclamation as no other people had ever received. The destruction of Pharaoh's host, the raining of manna from Heaven, the smitten rock, and smoking Sinai, all seemed so real as I read my Bible and meditated.
I appreciated Divine favor which could be seen in travel as well as service. While in Cairo we went to some of the mosques in which the cities of Egypt seem to abound. Travelers usually go to those places in small parties. We were asked to remove our shoes, and put on slippers before entering those places so sacred to all Mohammedans. Guides greeted us at every turn. We scarcely knew what to do with them, as they followed us so persistently, when they saw we were strangers in that great unique city. We viewed the Pyramids and Sphinx from the back of a camel, it being my first ride in this manner. We did not get the full benefit of the scene, but were saved having blistered feet on the burning sands.
We visited the museum, which was very interesting, and saw the supposed body of Pharaoh -- who went after Moses, but did not get him, but there is nothing in the Bible to prove that his body was ever found.
We saw many other things, which became more interesting the longer we stayed. We could not speak to the mummies, but they looked as though they could almost speak to us, they have been so well preserved and look so natural. Many stones of different kinds are in this museum, which can be found nowhere else in the world, and they are truly wonderful. Excavations are still being made, and stones yet being found which contain much valuable information.
When the time came to leave Cairo, we felt that it had been time well spent, and we were soon on our way to the place around which all else centers, and without which all else is a failure -- the birthplace of Jesus, the crucifixion, His resurrection, His ascension and the coming of the Holy Ghost.
After passing many places of special interest, the valley and plains of Sharon, the birthplace of Samson, the place where Joshua commanded the sun and moon to stand still, the wilderness where John the Baptist preached, and many other places of interest which were pointed out to us by the guide. We were so much interested, that we thought very little about the time, and soon found ourselves in sight of Jerusalem, the place we so much desired to see. All on the train were eager to get the first glimpse of the place of such great interest in the life of our Lord, which is now a place of awful destitution, desolation, destruction, sorrow and sadness, because of the saying, "His blood shall be upon us and upon our children." As we were reaching the city, we all joined in singing, "Praise God from whom all blessings flow," which well expressed our feelings, after our pleasant trip under Divine favor And blessing over land and sea.
The sun was just going to rest, and I felt very much like doing the same, and soon went to my room, which had a stone floor and stone walls, with an iron bedstead in it. I took my Bible and stood almost speechless when I found the word "Jerusalem," and read what Jesus said about her, and I could better understand why she was in the present condition. As I thought of Jesus being there, my soul was blessed, and my prayer was that I might be more like Him. This is the city, we are told, over which Jesus wept, and oh, how bitter were those tears! The people are now left to weep over their rejection of Him, and His prophecies for that people and place were literally fulfilled, and their sad condition is the result of resisting God and turning away from the light. Judgments follow the offers of mercy. "He came unto His own, and His own received Him not." How he lingered and longed to deliver them, but they did then as many do in this day, treated with scorn the message and the messenger. "Oh, Jerusalem, Jerusalem, thou that killest the prophets, and stonest them which are sent unto thee, how often would I have gathered thy children together, even as a hen gathereth her chickens under her wings, and ye would not."
The next morning I arose early and went up on the city walls. I felt I was walking on holy ground. What a beautiful sight! The sun was just coming up over the Mount of Olives, and shedding His first rays of light on the Garden of Gethsemane, that place of such awful suffering, where such a tragedy took place, as the world has never since known.
I saw the place where the poor man was brought to the gate, the place where the beggar whose sores were licked by the dogs and who lay at the rich man's gate, the place where the Pharisee and the Publican went up to the temple to pray, the one being justified and the other being condemned. So many strange scenes greeted our eyes The Russian pilgrims could be seen by scores, starting out on their long march to the Dead Sea, the River Jordan and other sacred places. It reminded me of the children of Israel on the way to the Promised Land. My heart was touched on seeing their sacrifice in going to these places.
As I read my Bible, it seemed almost like a new book, and became its own commentary, and explained its own contents. I could not help but exclaim, "Am I really at the place so many have desired to see, and have not been permitted?" My eyes filled with tears again and again as I thought of the events that had taken place there. And as reviewed by Matthew, things became real to me. What did it mean that I should be permitted to see the place? My earnest prayer was that it might be all to me that it should be, and all and in all for the glory of God, and that my heart might be so abandoned and receptive that I might not lose one thought or impression that the Holy Ghost had for my life, and that His truths might live in me in such a way that they would not only be a blessing to me, but a blessing to others. I spent the time in and about the city, visiting many places of interest. I did not like to go with others or in crowds, as they talked so much about history and tradition, and I wanted only my Bible and the impressions the Holy Ghost would give. I visited the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, which is the center of attraction, and the guide showed and explained everything, but I did not get so much as when I went again alone.
The wailing place of the Jews is like many others, hard to describe, but hundreds of the Jews come to this place to weep and wail, and well they may, for they indeed have a good cause. Some seemed to be true mourners, while others only went through a form. But I saw tears running down some cheeks, and their hearts seemed broken. This "Wailing Place" is a narrow lane with a high stone wall on either side, and the mourners put their faces. against the walls and go through some kind of chant which was meaningless to me. They are looking for Jesus, but we see Him with the eye of faith. Their hearts are sad, but ours are glad. We have a lively hope begotten in our hearts by the coming and crucifixion of our Lord Jesus Christ. What sorrow lingers with them because 6f their past sins! The world's only hope is a risen, loving Saviour. Without this, life is not worth living, and if in this life only we have hope, "We are of all men the most miserable." They are disappointed, but we are appointed. Glory! I never heard such wailing as this place. It surely has the proper name, "The Jews' Wailing Place."
That afternoon I went to the Garden of Gethsemane. I could wait no longer to go to that sacred place, or where it is said to be, (and it must be near there, as it is at the foot of Mount Olivet.) As we approached the Garden, the very air seemed to be expressing the cost of our redemption. Oh, what it must have meant to our Lord, as He walked over those paths to that place! His eyes were open, while those of His followers were closed. I thought of how He prayed all night and of the suffering He went through for my soul's redemption. I could only weep and covenant with Him anew that I would follow wherever He might lead. The city was getting quiet and the lights began to flicker in different parts of it. The houses are built so different to any I had ever seen, because of the heat. A man was calling the hour of prayer for the Moslems. I did not wish to hasten, as it was the first time I had visited this sacred spot. It was there that Jesus had His quiet retreat for prayer. I tarried as long as I could and stole quietly away and felt well paid for my long trip and all it had meant to reach it. I felt that my life never could be the same again, that I would be faithful and obedient to the promptings and leadings of the Holy Ghost.
Those were wonderful days to my soul, as it was the place in which the foundation stones were laid by our Lord for the salvation of the whole world. Jesus taught by example that a day of victory was only the preparation for a night of prayer. After He had been preaching and feeding the multitude and was weary and worn, He went alone in the mountain to pray, and commune with God about the redemption of the world. So we must leave the work and all that has been accomplished, along with its encouraging results, to be alone with God. We must never make a hitching post of the past, but rather a guide post to the future. Oh, Lord, teach us to pray. We need more sweating prayers, which take the best from us and gives it to God. Any sacrifice for His service is a privilege. We want subtraction prayers, as well as those of addition and multiplication, and if souls are convicted for sin, some one must prevail with God.
That visit to the Holy Land was in answer to my precious mother's prayer. She knew how to talk with God better than people, and prevailed with Him for my soul. After I had been converted and received the Holy Ghost, and was starting out in the work, she smiled through her tears as she bade me good-bye, and said, "This is all in answer to prayer. Remember whatever you meet, I am praying for you." When we stand at the Judgment Bar of God, and hear the words, "Well done, enter thou into the joy of thy Lord," instead of "Depart, I know you not," it will be because some one claimed at the Throne of Grace redemption for a lost soul, through the precious blood of Jesus.
A trip to Jericho, the River Jordan, and the Dead Sea was planned, and while many went in the regular way, in heavy carriages, I was favored in getting to go in a top buggy with an American gentlemen, where we had more room, and this added to the pleasure and profit of the trip. It was one of the most interesting trips in Palestine, and one I had long looked forward to, and found it far beyond what I expected. We left Jerusalem early on a beautiful morning in March, with the bright eastern sun in our faces. We found ourselves winding around Mount Olivet. It is surely, "Down to Jericho," for it was down, down, for miles and miles, but about noon we came to a little place with a number of huts and two or three hotels, and they said, "This is Jericho." The food is all brought from Jerusalem when the tourists come, as only native Bedouins live there, who subsist on the food made from the meal ground by the "women at the mill." I went to a number of the huts, where large families live just in one room, and the mother, and possibly the eldest daughter would be sitting on the ground just outside the door grinding at the mill. The Dead Sea is still much below Jericho. We went over some very rough roads, and at one place we had to walk through mud, but in due time we reached the sea, which is really dead. One can easily see that, as it lies so still and smooth with no currents or no outlet. This was to me a good illustration of some professing Christians, whose lives give out nothing, but desire to take in all the time, and thus they become selfish and self-centered.
After driving over a low strip of land for some time, we came to the River Jordan. How different it was from the Dead Sea. This tornado rushing down with great force, giving of its power and blessing to everything with which its waters came in contact, it not only had life in itself, but it watered and refreshed the surrounding country. There were many Russian pilgrims bathing and worshipping in its sacred waters. It was touching to see them washing their fine clothing in the stream to take home to be buried in. Many of them seemed almost frantic when they came in sight of the water. Some were shedding tears of joy, others shouting, some plunging into the water, as though great blessing would come in that way. They were enjoying in reality what they had so long thought about, and pictured in their minds. May God bless and save them, and satisfy their longing souls.
On our return to Jerusalem the next day, we thought we would like to stop at the brook Cherith again, where Elijah was fed by the ravens. It seemed an appropriate place for them to feed him, as they are about all that could find a man in such a place. It is off the road in a very secluded spot.
When we came to Bethany, We alighted from the buggy and went to the home of Mary and Martha, the place to which our Saviour resorted when He was tired of the noise of the city. It is very quiet and a place of easy access. We could only see the ruins of the old home, yet it was a blessing when we thought of Jesus having rested there after His weary journeys. It came to me that this might have been the only home in which He was always welcome. The paths over which He is supposed to have walked, are very rough and stony. I left the others and walked over the trail, as I wished to do this for the blessing it would be to my soul. I was shown the grave which is said to be the one from which Jesus raised Lazarus from the dead. It is very deep and dark, with twenty-five winding steps down to the bottom. The guide walked in front with a tallow candle to light the way into the tomb. It was large inside, but one stone could cover the mouth, and no doubt but this was the same stone which Jesus told the people to roll away when He was ready to bid Lazarus come forth. It is similar to the one the angels rolled from the tomb of Jesus, which had been sealed by the Roman government, as they thought that would end the wonderful works of Christ. How useless and fruitless are efforts out of the thought of God. No doubt those guards toiled long and hard to make that secure, but it did not hinder Him. One word from the Lord can roll away every seeming hindrance, no difference how long the enemy has been working on it. He can bring deliverance and set every captive soul at liberty. Glory to God!
Those who were in the carriages went around the road, but I took my Bible and went over the path that leads across the Mount of Olives, as I wanted to be alone and meditate on the place and things which Jesus spoke about. So many scenes came up before me, as I stood on Mount Olivet, where the followers of Jesus stood gazing up, as the Heavens opened and received Him out of their sight. The angels asked a question which has never been answered, and declared that He was coming back again. These words are such a comfort to the followers of Jesus today, and His soon coming is such an inspiration. As we work let #15 also watch for His appearing. It was a beautiful spring afternoon, and I remained there for some time. The flowers were blooming and the birds singing. The sun was golden with a few scattered clouds over the sky. All seemed to be in keeping with the place, and if man did not praise the Lord, it seemed that the very stones would break forth in thanksgiving and praise. The shepherd was separating his sheep from his goats, and sheltering them for the night; and then winding his way across the hills to the city. I could see over a stretch 6f beautiful country the pilgrims returning to the Holy City, after their long journey. I looked up and praised God from a full heart that He had been crowned King of Kings in my heart. I praise Him for those days of blessing, when I renewed my vows of allegiance to Him forever. Many places may be changed, and some locations questioned, but this is one of the places that remains unchanged by the devastating ravages of time, and I felt that was enough. After a season of prayer and reading the Word, I stole away and went to my room, and prayed that those things might be so impressed upon my mind and instilled in my being that others would be blest by my having looked on those scenes.
The following morning myself and two or three others started on a journey to Emmaus. We first stopped at Mizpeh, went to the top of the tower and viewed the surrounding country. We saw where Solomon made his sacrifices, which we read so much about; and where the Lord appeared to him at Gibeon, and told him to ask what he would, and it should be granted. He asked for wisdom, that he might be able to do the things that God would have him do. We tarried there for some time, and then continued our journey, over a hilly country along a narrow path, over which the disciples were walking when Jesus appeared to them, and they knew Him not, but He spoke to them out of the scriptures until their hearts burned within them by the way. We went over the very paths He trod. What a privilege, and how we praised Him for the consciousness that He was coming back again. We returned to our carriages, and drove over hill and through valley, eager to come in sight of Emmaus, our destination. We continued until we finally came in plain view of the town. A monk kindly showed us the place where Jesus and His disciples stayed all night; then we were invited in for our noon day meal, which we were quite prepared for, as our morning ride in the sun's warm rays had made us very hungry and thirsty, and there we enjoyed the best meal we had in Palestine, without any exception, and they only asked "a free will offering" for it, whatever one thought was right. They said Christ entertained without price, and they would do the same. I had been asked many times before to drink wine, and the monk who waited on the table filled a glass for me and insisted that I should drink it because the people did when Jesus was here, (referring to the time when Jesus turned the water into wine at the marriage in Cana.) All the others at the table drank, but I was willing to stand alone at this time, and they seemed to think it very strange, and were almost offended that I did not.
We returned by way of Kirjath-jearim where the Ark rested, and arrived in Jerusalem a little after sunset, rather tired, but feeling well paid for our trip.
One day, after spending some time in Palestine, I took my Bible and started to that sacred spot, the Garden of Gethsemane. As I neared the place it seemed that the very air was laden with the breath of prayer. I felt I should step softly. After prayer and weeping, as I read the Bible account, It seemed that the Holy Ghost whispered, "It was all for you." Should I ever count any place too lonely, or any sacrifice too great for the One who loved me so. The noise of the city of
Jerusalem could be heard, and the sun was shining bright when I arrived, but I was so taken up with the impressions which the Holy Ghost brought to my mind and heart that the sun had set, and night had come so quietly I had not realized it. I was really weeping and praying near the spot where Jesus was in prayer at night all alone. Oh, those hours! The city had become quiet, and I stole quietly away from the garden. After going in what I supposed was the right direction, I found I was getting farther away from the city, or in other words I was lost, and did not know how to get home. I stopped and prayed, and when I felt God had heard and would answer, I started, but I did not know which way to go. Just then I heard a low muttering voice, and as it came nearer I found it was a native, and the answer to prayer came. It was a man making his way to the city. The Holy Ghost told me to follow him, and I followed. After walking a long time we crossed a road and some one spoke in English and said, "Who is that?" and I answered. This was a party of men that was out hunting me. As I had not returned, they supposed I had gotten lost, and they were out on the search. I found I had followed a drunken Arab from the place where I discovered I was lost until I was found by the people who were searching for me.
"On land or sea, what matters where, Where Jesus is, He answers prayer."
Bethlehem, the birthplace of our Saviour, is another most interesting place. The people are noted for their beauty, and they dress more becomingly than any other people in Palestine. They differ in many ways from others, and can be recognized anywhere. It was a lovely afternoon, and after arriving in Bethlehem, we went to the Church of the Nativity, and spent some time. We saw the Greeks and Catholics going through a form of religious worship at that sacred spot. They keep a light burning all the time at the place where they suppose Jesus was born. I remained there quite awhile after the others had gone. On our return, we stopped at Solomon's Pools in sight of Bethlehem. There are three of them, varying in size and depth. After stopping here long enough to see the pools and take a walk, we returned to Jerusalem.
One bright afternoon in April, in company with two or three others and our donkey boy, we started for Ramallah, seven miles from Jerusalem, where the Friends' Mission is located. There is a narrow track called a road over which we passed. At times we would go through narrow passages, then the road would take in all the plain. The country was not very attractive, but barren and rocky. Only now and then could we see a native coming to or returning to Jerusalem. When we came to a very rough part of the road, the boy would make the donkey go faster than usual, which made it rather hard on us, but seemed to amuse him. He was in a hurry in order to return to Jerusalem before night, as it is considered unsafe to be out after dark.
Just as the sun was sinking away, we reached Ramallah, and rang the bell at the gate of the mission, the grounds being enclosed by a high wall. When we rang, brother Roundtree came out, opened the gate and gave us a hearty welcome, and we felt much at home. I had met Mr. and Mrs. Roundtree before they went to the mission field, and it was pleasant to renew our acquaintance. After the evening meal, we looked over the grounds and buildings, and spent some time in conversation about the work. And after reading the Word and having prayer, we retired in order to be ready for the Sabbath. I awoke early in the morning feeling much refreshed, and the Holy Ghost spoke to my soul about the things of Christ. When we went to the house of God, a large audience had gathered and this was my first opportunity to speak through an interpreter. The Holy Ghost was there in power and blessing. I had long prayed that I might have this opportunity, and my prayer was then answered. In the afternoon I attended a good meeting, conducted by the children at the mission, and at the Bible school again. in the evening speaking by another voice. The Holy Ghost set His seal on our work. It was a wonderful day. My soul was blest, and I was more than paid for going.
I had always had a great desire to see Jacob's Well, where our Saviour, weary with His journey, and doubtless hungry -- as it was about the sixth hour of the day -- sat and spoke to the Samaritan woman, and she received the water of life, and as all true disciples do, began immediately to tell the story of salvation to those who have never heard.
We made arrangements to go and started early in the morning from Ramallah, but the journey was not a very pleasant one, as we rode, and our donkey boy had to work very hard to make the donkey go, and we never knew whether we or the donkey would get de benefit of the club, but we were willing to risk it, and all other inconveniences in order to see this place, which was historic, and made sacred by the visit of our Lord. We were told we were making good time, and would reach there early. After going over the mountainous place, at the foot of which was a spring and a stopping place, we alighted and ate with much relish the lunch which had been prepared for us, watered the animals and took a rest from the saddle. After feeling refreshed, we resumed our journey. We traveled until a portion of land surrounded by a wall of stone came in view. This we were informed was the well. The sun was hot, and I thought of what the Bible says about His being weary, and well He might have been after such a journey over stony paths, winding in and about the mountain. After reaching the place, we alighted and made our way to the well, followed by several natives looking as though they thought we were going to carry off their possession, when we only wanted a drink. They first showed us how deep the well was, by lowering a candle in it, then they drew up some water and I took a glassful, for I not only wanted to see the well, but wished to drink of its contents.
After reading about Christ's visit to this place, and walking around for a time, we went to Sychem and spent the night, in order to have a rest and be prepared for our return journey on the morrow. We stayed at what they called a tavern, a rather poor affair, but we took a walk around the village, saw the natives busy about their work, and returned to our rooms for a needed rest after a wonderful day.
On returning we passed Bethel, where Jacob had his dream, also the place where Jesus was missed from the company, when He was found by His parents in the temple at Jerusalem in the midst of the doctors, when He was twelve years of age. We arrived at Ramallah in the evening, feeling well paid for our two days' journey. We had read of the place, and been told about it, but was glad that God had permitted us to see it for ourselves. After resting another night, we returned to Jerusalem, where I revisited Gethsemane, Mount Olive, and Calvary, also visited the Pool of Bethesda, the Pool of Siloam and other places of Biblical interest, walked around the walls of the city, through the streets and visited some of the recent excavations. They are very wonderful, as there have been many valuable things found there.
We next visited Solomon's Temple, and in order to do this, we had to obtain a permit from the government and have a soldier ac. company us. The site is now occupied by the Mosque Omer, which was the finest building I had seen. They tell you many strange stories and show you many peculiar things. Before entering this building one must remove his shoes and put on slippers which are furnished. They do not allow you to touch anything, or look at them very long, but keep you moving all the time, and even in this way it takes quite awhile to go all over it.
We went into a kind of a cave underneath to see the place known as Solomon's Stables, which is said to be the stables where his horses were kept. It must have been a very fine place then, and many horses could be kept with very little trouble. His chariots were also stored there.
It takes time to see all the places of interest, but after once seeing them, you feel you would not have missed any, and while they are somewhat difficult to describe, they make the Bible mean so much more, and one can better understand it.
After leaving the Mosque of Omer, we walked around the grounds. It covers several acres, and extends to the east wall and the gate by which Christ entered on His triumphant entry into the city. This gate is now closed, but they are looking for Him to return and open it. They have many traditions about His coming. I am so glad that He is really coming again. I am ready for His coming any time, "Even so, come, Lord Jesus," and receive thy bride from this sin-cursed world.
We went to see Pilate's Judgment Hall, which is on a street several feet below the main street, on which we had walked. A number of Russian pilgrims had found their way to that place, and were prostrating themselves, and crying as though their hearts would break. They seemed sincere in their worship, and would surely receive a blessing, as they had so much desired to see those places, and it seemed good for us to be there. Some of the pilgrims did not look as though they would live to see them again. We thought of the mock trial and all that took place hundreds of years ago. It became most interesting, while there was so much in the background, yet much was brought out as we read our Bibles.
I was invited to a Passover supper. They had a slain lamb which was eaten in the old way of which we read. It was a beautiful evening. The new moon had begun to give her silvery light, and the stars seemed to be vying with each other as to which could shine the brightest. Having received and accepted the invitation, they came after me to tell me they were ready, as I was the honored guest. On my arrival, all the others were seated on the ground around the supper, which consisted principally of the lamb, but fruit and some other things were served. When I arrived they all arose and bowed themselves to the ground. Then all were seated on the ground again, and after
returning thanks, we began to eat. I was served first, and what a plate. I shall never forget it. We had no knives or forks, so ate with our fingers. They all talked Arabic, and I did my best. I could use only a few words, but I could understand them a little better, and make signs. That was one of the most pleasant evenings I spent in Jerusalem. I thought much about our "Pass. over Lamb," and was thankful for the privilege I had enjoyed, but more thankful to know that the "Lamb" which was slain, had purchased my redemption, by His blood. We have the forgiveness of sins, which is a reality, while that was only a type. Many places which are 'grand to behold, are difficult to describe.
One day I went to Calvary's Hill, which is said to be the place where our Lord was crucified. A man by the name of Gordon, who made a special study of Biblical history, located this as being the place. There is no spot more sacred in all Palestine than lonely Mount Calvary -Golgotha, just outside the city walls. Here the precious life blood of our Saviour was poured out for you and me. How willing we ought to be to suffer for Him who died in such agony for the salvation of the lost world. How can we murmur at a little sacrifice and suffering, after once gazing upon even the hill where this all took place. Lord, help me to prove my love for the One who has redeemed me by His own precious blood. That was a blessed place in which to read my Bible and pray.
The last week I spent in Palestine was what was called the "Holy Week," and the day before the feast of the Passover I could see the shepherds coming from the east and west, north and south, with the products of their pastures, bringing them to the city to sell. Each family is supposed to bring a lamb of their own, but if they are too poor, and many are, several families go together and buy one, and all will keep the feast, rich and poor, old and young. That is the principal feast of the year. I could hear the lambs bleating from all directions, as they were being driven by themselves from the flock. I remembered what Isaiah said of Jesus being "led as a lamb to the slaughter." Their cries were so pitiful, but they had to die in order to have the feast. So Jesus gave His life that we might be freed from sin, and sit with Him in heavenly places. Blessed be His name
I attended the church of the Holy Sepulcher. The great feast day had come, and they had special ceremonies. The large crowd and the manner of procedure was something entirely new to me. I had read in the Bible about the multitudes treading one upon another, but that needed no artist to color it. It was a real fact. I was glad I saw it, as I know now something of what a crowd meant in olden times. There is a tomb there, which is said to be the new tomb of Joseph of Arimathaea, where the body of our Lord lay. Oh, those dark days before that first glorious Easter morn, when the angels said, "He is not here, He is risen." Glory! Whether that is the place or not, we do not know, but we do know He is risen. I was impressed that day with the great number of soldiers who marched in and took their places. One might have thought that war had been declared. I wondered what they were there for, and what they were going to do, but the question soon answered itself. I at first sought a place in the crowd, but soon found that was more than I desired. So I climbed to a high place on one of the stone pillars. I do not know how I looked, but I felt safe as the parade entered, and the people acted almost like mad. They were all wanting to light their candles with the "holy fire" at the same time, and when the priests passed along, the people seemed almost frantic. It was something similar to the time when the Pope. appears in St. Peter's in Rome, to bless the people and let their longing eyes gaze on the greatest (?) ecclesiastical ruler the world has even known. I was told that people had been trampled to death during those feasts. From my place I could see all the performances and disturbance, and also get a bird's eye view of all I had come to see. I was much relieved, however, when the crowd dispersed, and I could safely leave my perch.
The last day I spent in Jerusalem was the Sabbath. It was a beautiful morning, and I arose early and slipped away, as I wished to be alone with God as much as possible during the day. How fitting it all seemed after those days of wanderings about the places of historical and Biblical interest. With heartaches and flowing tears, and renewed vows to God, I spent many hours in prayer. That Sabbath day seemed indeed a benediction on my stay in that land. The indelible impressions made by the Holy Ghost will never be effaced, and my gratitude for those precious lessons can never be expressed. I expected much, but received even more, and often wished that many others might have the same privilege, of walking over the paths, roaming in the fields and studying the things which are of so much interest because of their associations with our Lord. In the land in which He lived, died and rose again, we now have a living Saviour who is making intercession for us. I went to a mission meeting first, but could not understand the language, though I could understand the shining faces and the spirit that made us one. It was a good meeting and the Lord blest. I then hastened away to the Mount of Olives, as I wished to visit that beautiful spot once more before leaving, and had never been there on the Sabbath, so I walked 'up by Gethsemane, went up the old road to the top of the Mount, took my Bible, read and prayed and took a view of the surrounding country, studded with green grass, blooming flowers, flocks of sheep and goats and the natives in their usual garb. All seemed much like the other days as far as I could see. Not far away was a man plowing with a yoke of oxen, and I remembered the words, "Zion shall be plowed as a field." They were going to and from the market as usual, and the city of which I had such a good view was a flood of noise and confusion. Many ceremonies were being performed on this day by the priests, and many poor people were turned empty away. How different to the way in which Jesus treated the poor. He had a heart of love for them. Oh, what compassion He had on the poor, the sick and the sinful.
A cloud came in the sky and suddenly all changed in appearance. The Heavens became dark, the wind began to blow and my mind was turned from the things which had been made to the Maker, and when the rain began to fall I found shelter in a rock near by, which was a very suggestive lesson and made the other more impressive. After the rain ceased, which had refreshed everything, I left my retreat and went down the mountain to Gethsemane and spent the afternoon with my Bible. Many came and went, but I wished to tarry, and I read all about what took place at the time Jesus was there, and while there is so much on the face of the Bible, yet when one sees the background where these things transpired, much that was misunderstood about those sacred places seemed plain. In the evening the lepers and the poor were sitting on either side of the road, asking for alms. The blind and the lame all seemed as though they thought their time for begging was short. The sun was getting low and I went quietly up to the city walls, but did not go through the gate, but went to Calvary and to the Garden and to the Tomb and remained there until the sun set. I saw its last rays gleam over Mt. Olivet and the city began to grow still. Only now and then was a voice heard or the usual mutterings of the native voices, or the lowing of a calf, or the bleating of a lamb. The day had closed and every moment had been one of blessing to me, and left an effect that will touch all other days of my life. Those last days in and about these sacred places seemed like days of Heaven on earth, and the Holy Ghost specially led at all times.
On the following morning I took the train for Jaffa, and as it left the station I was glad to pursue the journey and see other places in Galilee. We found our steamer was in waiting, but it was so rough the authorities would not let the boatmen take us out, and I began to pray. After two or three hours the word came we could go. We got into a small boat and went up, and it really seemed more like going down, as we were tossed by the rough waves. But the boatmen continued to row on until we reached our steamer. My mind was so upset on this occasion that I did not take in all that I might have, and other passengers went through similar experiences. Some one was kind enough to see to my baggage, but I had felt I would not need that any more. I had always heard of Jaffa being a rough port, and after my experience I could add my testimony to the truth of this statement.
When the hour arrived for our steamer to sail she quietly moved off. I was glad some one could see after the steamer and things pertaining to this life, as I was not thinking much about this world or worldly things. After a few hours on the sea we arrived at our port and were met by a man who interpreted for us, to whom we were glad to commit ourselves. He took charge of the small boat in which we went ashore. We inquired the distance to Nazareth, and to the Sea of Galilee, and found it was one day's journey to one and two to the other. They furnished all necessary provision and took us to those places around which centers so much of the life and service of Jesus, as we felt we would not be ready to return without having seen them. We went in a heavy wagon with a cover with three seats and two horses. We started out with good speed, and all was favorable for our day's journey. The country was very much like that which we had been accustomed to seeing. The road was not very smooth, which broke the monotony of the journey, and made us ready for our food and rest. At an early hour, after having made one part of the journey, we came to a nice grove, which was very much enjoyed after our morning ride in the hot sun. It was a lovely place. We stopped and the guide prepared the food and we took dinner on the green grass of Galilee. It seemed more like a dream than a reality, but after eating and taking a good rest, both man and beast, we resumed our journey, which was much the same as during the morning hours. We passed the mountain where Elijah prayed and the fire fell and consumed the sacrifice and licked up the water in the trenches. The mountain is known by the natives as "Fire Mountain," and can be seen all over the country. They believe the Scripture, and so do I. What a sight! It must have been a very impressive lesson. Mt. Carmel is known in connection with answered and unanswered prayer, and shows the contrast between idolatry and Christianity, false gods and the true God, man's work and God's work, the forms of men and the power of God.
There is a God that answers by fire and gives tongues of fire, if people were not so doubtful and unbelieving, but would pray as Elijah prayed. We need more prayers like that and mote fire would come from Heaven. What a chosen spot! Idolatry overthrown and Christianity planted.
We passed on over the hills and through the valleys, occasionally passing a native village, and in the afternoon about an hour before sunset we reached the top of the hill, and Nazareth could be seen in the distance. We saw the place where they meant to throw Jesus over the precipice, and the place called Nain, where Jesus met the funeral procession and raised the widow's son from the dead. Here life and death met, and life was victorious. After passing Nain we took a winding course and came into Nazareth, where we had always desired to be. We secured rooms for the night, then took a look about the place. We went to Mary's Fountain, the watering place of the city, and at that time of the evening large numbers could be seen getting water in jars, and placing it on their heads and return to their huts and hovels. They looked tired and worn after the day's toil, but they seemed satisfied. So many children were seen there on the streets, and they looked at us with great curiosity. After our walk we took our suppers and retired to our rooms, being quite ready to rest after our long ride.
On leaving Nazareth we went up a single hill from which we could see the surrounding country; however, before leaving we went to the house of Mary and Joseph, the carpenter, and the guides told us many things concerning them. I was much impressed, as that seemed a suitable place for the early or proprietary life of Jesus. It seems to be shut in from the world, and He could live almost an unknown and unseen life, because of the location, and well might one who comes from that place be called "a. Nazarene," and the expressed surprise, "Can anything good come out of Nazareth?" certainly had its place. The answer, "Come and see," was good. They could not believe without seeing, as it was a very low class of humanity and did not seem to be even the average, and we did not wonder that the people were all surprised at any good thing coming forth from such a place. The sanitary conditions are lacking, and yet the people live well and seem to be strong. The early morning scenes are very curious and different from the other places we visited, the people leaving for their work in the country to get wood, to shepherd the flocks and to do many other things.
We made arrangements and were soon on our way to Cana, where Jesus performed the first miracle by turning the water into wine at the marriage. We visited a school there and the children looked at us as though we were curiosities. We supposed we were to them at least.
They showed us the jars into which the water was poured that was made into wine, but they looked new to have so much ancient history connected with them.
They seemed to want to tell us something about the place; however, there is not much to see there, but all the travelers want to see what there is, so we spent some time there walking about, then got into our conveyances and went on to the other side of the village. We drove on until it was almost noon and we stopped for the view we had come to see. Many others were coming to the same place, and under the sun's rays it was very hot, especially at this time of the day, and the thought of a place to rest was very acceptable, and we were hungry as usual. What a blessing it was to want to eat and have something to eat. We sat down and after returning thanks, partook of the food which had been placed at our disposal, which consisted of fish, eggs, fruit, etc. And while we were eating some natives came along. I told our dragman that I wanted to speak to them through him. He consented and I asked them if they knew Jesus, and I shall never forget their answer. They said they knew Him as a man, but not as God, and I thought that answer might be given by thousands and state their real condition. How many speak of Him as a great man but do not know Him as a great Savior. How I pity them I am so glad we can know Him as a God who has power on earth to forgive sin.
We again took our lunch near the Sea of Galilee and continued our journey through a much prettier country, and as we came near the sea, the last hour's drive was mostly in view of it, and it is like it is from Jerusalem to Jericho. It was "down, down."
We were told that we could have fish caught from the sea for supper, and we enjoyed them very much. It seemed they tasted a little better than any we had eaten before or since. We took a boat and went across the Sea of Galilee to Bethsaida, and from there to Magdala, where Mary Magdalene had seven devils cast out. We returned before night to be ready to leave in the early morning. That seemed to be a very unhealthy place. Some were sick, but we did not stay long. We left in the morning in order to reach our steamer, which was going to Bey Route the following evening. We had the opportunity of seeing the Sea of Galilee at the most beautiful time, just at sunrise, and we were well on our way when the sun rose to take charge of the day, as a king on his throne.
We were so grateful and felt well paid for the time spent, and this, together with what we have seen in and about Jerusalem, adds much to the picture of the life of our Lord, making more vivid and impressive the beginning, the preparation, the obedience and sacrifice of Jesus. Labor was made honorable, and the carpenter's work was blest as well as the goldsmith's. The plane in which men live was exalted by His living on the earth, and to know that He lived as servant as well as Lord, ought to bless all lives of those in legitimate business. Surely this life lived in obscurity so much of the time, was prepared to touch all lives, and He is able to help each one of us. While He was high, yet He was willing to become one of us, and one with us, and take upon himself our own infirmities, and carry our sorrows, and we are made free by His precious blood. It seems that while we have seen much, there is still so much we do not know, and so many precious truths yet to learn. But since I have seen the places where He spent most of His time while on earth, I have wondered that we did not know more about Him. But since I have made this tour, and see. how the people worship each place where they knew Him to be, and many places where they thought He was, I can clearly see so much of this is unknown in order that we may worship the person and not the place, or at least this answers the question to my mind.
The unknown life of Jesus becomes very suggestive as to what He might have done after the days in the synagogue, and with the people, but this was unknown by those around Him, yet known to His Father. Just how many hours He spent in this way in that beautiful country was kept sacred to Him and His Father alone, but we are told that He went back to Nazareth and was subject to His parents.
On our return we stopped at Nazareth and left that night, but all those scenes will be a blessing to me as long as I live, and "When I see Him face to face, and tell the story -- saved by grace," I shall still be glad of those days, but it has not been my thought to turn the mind of the reader to the places so much, as to the life of Christ, and to obtain the benefits of the plan of redemption and receive the Holy Ghost, so that he may be wise in time and happy through all eternity.
